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Yangon to Bagan : Day One
Feeling exhausted so a short but sweet blog tonight!
After our 4am – yes that is FOUR AM – wakeup call this morning we headed for the airport and a short 70 minute flight to Bagan arriving at about 7am, As we flew in on the Air Mandalay 76-seater (for those who want the details) we could see the first of the 5000 pagodas and temples for which this area is famous.
First on the agenda was visiting 4 pagodas which are considered the highlights from all of the choices.
The first thing we noticed about Bagan was the heat as it is in central Myanmar: less humidity but it was HOT! One of the joys of pagoda and temple visiting is that you have to take your shoes off, and you also have to be covered up with no knees or shoulders showing: not so very easy when the tiles and bricks on the ground have been baking in the sun for days and the temperature just keeps rising until it's well over 30 degrees celsius. We
revived ourselves with lots of water and a few stints of air conditioning when we were on the bus.
Whilst
visiting lots of pagodas sounds a bit repetitive, each one was completely different and
remarkable in its own way: they varied in age from the 9th
to the 17th century.
The
first was Shwe Zigon, built in the 11th century and the
same style as the Shwedagon in Yangon, except that the Stupa or
curved tower was about one-third of the size, at about 30 metres.
It's claim to fame was that it housed a replica of Buddha's tooth and
shoulder bone. So somewhere, 6 feet underground, they were placed and
this enormous shining golden stupa was created.
The
next was an 11th Century tiny pagoda called Gu byauk with
intricate but faded paintings: amazing to think they are so old and
still surviving ( at least the ones not stolen by a German
archaeologist).
The
next was Htilo Minlo which had ancient stucco decorating the outside
walls that had been there since the 13th Century.
For
something completely different then we visited a giant Buddha -Ma
nuha - that had been housed in a building that was so small that you
had to squeeze past the Buddha to walk around it. Very hard to
appreciate the size when you are up that close!
Of
course when we arrive we are seen as a cash cow (sorry ladies!) by
the local peddlers who are very persistent. We have perfected the
technique of not making eye contact and trying to look at interesting
items without appearing to be interested.
The
prize for the best purchase of the day goes to Kim who purchased a
truly stunning set of Christmas cards - including one of Father
Christmas riding a Brahmin bull! Just what every Christmas needs!
By
this stage we had had our fill of pagodas, our rooms were ready for
us and we were desperate to catch up on some sleep. The Aureum Palace
Resort is certainly palatial: we don't have a room each - we have a
small house! I'm sure a local family or two could live in my unit: it has
about 5 rooms plus an outdoor balcony.
I
had a sleep and then went to the infinity pool which was very
spectacular: as you swim towards the edge of the pool you appear to
be swimming towards a couple of pagodas: very beautiful and totally
decadent!.
Feeling
refreshed we headed off for Andana Okkyaung: a beautiful small 17th
Century temple filled with paintings which were worn but still
beautiful. The green from the indigo plant and the red from cinnamon
bark created a lovely palette and added another dimension to the
detailed paintings of Buddha stories and everyday life. We were
particularly interested to see lots of pictures of stunning
concubines, apparently present to test the strength of the monks' faith .
Last
but not least we wearily arrived at the the Andana Pagoda which
featured 4 huge smiling golden Buddhas whose smiles were enhanced by
clever use of natural light. We tried to overlook the loud microphone
used by a Thai tour guide which certainly wrecked the ambience. Given
the heat, humidity and fatigue it's amazing none of us went and
wrecked his microphone.
Omahr
was an endless mine of information and kept us moving: her knowledge
about the details of all of these buildings is truly amazing. And
we're all so overcome by the heat that I'm sure we keep asking the
same inane questions.
So,
having reached our limit on pagodas we did the real tourist thing and
enjoyed drinks, nibbles and the sunset at the Au Mint tower.
Fortunately there was a lift as only Alison had the energy to climb
the stairs.
Returned
to the hotel for dinner and yet another swim before bed.
Your
still exhausted but amazed correspondent
Dianne
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